games

Dogs build close bonds and relationships through play and physical contact. In the litter, puppies learn to play games to learn how to live co-operatively. It is important to understand the meaning of games so that your dog does not become confused about his/her relationship with the family. If we understand and control play, everybody can have fun and the dog can learn how to get things right in a human environment.

TIP: Try to establish two types of toy for your dog. He/she will need to chew. Things like the rubber Kong toys are ideal because they can be stuffed with treats to safely occupy him/her and give an outlet for chewing. Many dogs like soft toys to snuggle up to or play with on their own. Let the dog know you are pleased to see him/her chew these toys but these are the dog's toys and are of no interest to humans so avoid playing games with them. The dog needs to have the impression that the humans in the family are not interested in playing games with chew toys. He/she will probably try to encourage you to play by bringing the toy, dropping it on your feet or in your lap. Don’t acknowledge either action, casually get up and for example put the kettle on without looking at either dog or toy.

The second type of toy is a play toy, e.g. balls, tuggies, soft toys, squeakies etc. Put a few of these toys out of the dog’s reach so that they are novel and you can decide when and how to play with your dog. When you want to invite a game, take out a toy and encourage the dog to play. Keep the game short and end the game while the dog still wants to play, always try to leave him/her wanting more. This helps to establish a relationship based on enjoyment and fun but where the humans set the boundaries.. The family control the possessions (toys) and not the dog.

This also helps your dog to learn not to demand attention by thrusting toys at you at inappropriate times. Remember to ignore all attempts by your dog to solicite a game with a chew toy.

Start with the dog on a flat collar and trailing lead. Try to use a toy that is big enough for you both to hold without your fingers being nibbled. Wiggle the toy along the ground and encourage him/her to mouth it. When the dog takes it, stroke and praise, giggle and have lots of fun. Try not to stare and maintain direct eye contact, this could be interpreted as a challenge and encourage the dog to start an instinctive possession game. If you find that this has happened and the dog is gripping on to the toy, glance away and back again or blink very slowly a couple of times, this should take any tension and confrontation out of the game. If this does not help and the dog is gripping onto the toy it could be that his/her jaw is becoming tense and locking. Tellington Touch is an excellent way to release this tension and allow the dog to release the toy. TTouches on the head, face, ears and jaw line will probably be the most helpful. Click the links on the left to learn more about TTouch.

While you are both holding the toy, drop the lead and stroke the dog. Before you release the toy, quietly pick up the end of the lead so that the dog cannot bounce away with the toy. Avoid maintaining direct eye contact.

It is important that the toy is not thrown until the dog is happy to share a game, close by you and give up the toy when you ask for it (see also the "OFF" exercise. If your dog does not learn to enjoy sharing a game with you, it may start to play the natural doggy possession game, standing off, a couple of paces away and grabbing the toy when you try to pick it up. Possession amongst dogs is a game of rank where in the dog's mind, whoever ends up with the toy, is the strongest. It is important to teach your dog the 'human/dog' game, rather than attempting to play like another dog and win with strength.

When you start to throw the toy a very short distance, leave the lead trailing so that you can still control the game. Avoid looking staring at either dog or toy, it may also help to slightly turn away so that he/she feels confident to move closer. Moving towards your dog is challenging and like maintaining eye contact can trigger him/her to move away from you. Quietly pick up the end of the trailing lead, stroke the dog and encourage him/her to be around you before putting a hand on the toy.

In order to keep the dog's response consistant once you have reached the stage of throwing toys for your dog to retrieve, remember to spend a couple of minutes on the 'sharing' game each time the dog returns to you with the toy.

It is worth spending time to develop this game. Dogs do not automatically know if an item is safe and appropriate to explore with their mouth. Many discover by trial and error that picking up certain things is an effective way to gain the family's attention and have a good game being chased around. Whatever the dog picks up, call him/her to you and praise quietly on arrival. Then invite a game with one of the dog's toys.

Your dog should learn to have more fun with the things he/she is allowed to play with. Life can become very trying if you are endlessly chasing the dog to recover valued possessions.

If your dog seems reluctant to come close to you / crumples into a heap on the floor by you / approaches very slowly, it could be that your body language is a little intimidating to him/her. Standing very square / leaning towards the dog / maintaining direct eye contact can make him/her reluctant to enter your personal space. If this is the case, try turning slightly away as you call or sit/squat down so that your body language is more inviting.

To begin training the recall, every time you remember that you have a dog, call him/her to you, ask for a sit, touch his collar/neck and reward with food and praise. It's a good idea to keep back part of the dog's daily food ration and repeat the recall many times every day in the early stages. Stroke and talk to the dog, initially giving a small piece of food every few seconds. It is essential that he/she learn to want to stay with you until given permission to leave again.

When the dog understands the game, vary the type and timing of the rewards given. (See also the section on Rewards). Clip the lead on and off so that he/she will learn to accept this quietly, in controlled conditions at home. It is very irritating to have your dog bounce away, every time you try to clip his lead on in the park!

Establish a good recall at home before expecting your dog to return from exciting smells or other dogs in the park. Your dog needs to have learned that you are the greatest source of fun and reward before you move the recall to an exercise area.

It is important to aim for success. When you are ready to start praticing in the park, begin when there are no major distractions nearby. Call and as the dog looks round at you he/she should see that you have begun to move away. This will trigger the dogs natural response to follow. Moving towards the dog as you call will encourage the dog to move further away. Change direction frequently and recall lots of times, reward (remember to vary the reward), sometimes clip the lead on and walk a few yards and then release again. Avoid taking the same route around the exercise area and putting the lead on to go home at exactly the same point. Most recalls should mean, a game, fuss, treats or freedoms again, not lead on and home.

Progress to practicing with distractions at a distance. Remember to aim for success at every stage and only gradually increase distractions.

If you already have a problem recalling your dog when out in the park, it may be helpful to re-train the recall exercise using a long line.

Dogs will naturally engage in this game when invited because this is how they played with their litter brothers and sisters and often how they still play with other dogs. It is a game of strength and generally involves mouthing and play biting.

With humans it is a game to avoid, especially with large breeds and where children, elderly or disabled people come into regular contact with your dog. It isn't really fair to engage in games that may get your dog into trouble if he/she tries to play them with somebody else.

If your dog is trying to solicite this sort of game, you may find the "Training Tips" for Mouthing, Play-biting and Nose-tabbing helpful. If the behaviour has already become intense and is causing serious concern, seek referal to professional via your Veterinary Surgeon.

Is often encouraged by children playing and/or too much unsupervised, rough play with other dogs/animals. It is important that your dog does not learn to view children and other animals as moving chew toys! Leave a light webbing lead trailing so that you can quietly pick it up and call a ‘time out’ during play sessions. If children are playing fast, noisy games it is unfair to expect your dog to remain calm.

Chasing the dog when he/she picks up 'something they shouldn't have' can also encourage a difficult habit to over come. Dogs learn very quickly that they can move faster and get into smaller places than humans in order to keep possession of a 'trophy'. They also learn to steal items that get your attention immediately! Try to make sure your dog does not have more fun from being chased, than coming when he/she is called.